The honest answer is: it depends which value you mean. One ring can carry three or four different numbers at once. Here's how a gemologist thinks about it — and how to get a real figure for yours.
It's the most common question we hear, and the one with the most misleading answers online. A number from a gold-price calculator, an old insurance appraisal in a drawer, and what a buyer will actually hand you can be three wildly different figures — for the exact same piece.
If you've inherited a piece or are thinking of buying one, it also helps to understand what estate jewelry is — how age, period and a maker's signature change the value.
Every valuation at Bizak & Co. is done personally by Arkadius Bizak — three decades in Miami's jewelry trade since 1996, gemmologically trained at HRD Antwerp (AWDC) and the ERIJ Foundation. This guide walks you through the same logic we use at the bench, so you know what you own before anyone quotes you a price.
What it would cost to replace the piece new, at retail, today. This is the big number on most appraisals — used for coverage, not for selling.
What the piece would realistically sell for in today's market. For most jewelry this is well below the insurance figure — and it's the number that matters if you're selling.
The raw value of the gold or platinum by weight and purity, plus any loose stones. A worn or damaged piece rarely drops below this.
What a dealer or auction house would pay to take it on and resell it. Helpful context when you compare offers.
Precious metal. Gold is priced by purity and weight — 10K, 14K, 18K or 22K (marked 417, 585, 750, 916), or platinum. The heavier and purer the piece, the higher its metal floor.
Diamonds. Value tracks the classic 4Cs — carat weight, cut, color and clarity — and any independent grading certificate. A certified stone is far easier to value fairly than an unpapered one.
Colored gemstones. Type, size, and above all origin and treatment matter enormously. A natural, untreated ruby, sapphire or emerald can be worth many times a heated or synthetic one that looks identical to the eye.
Maker and signature. A signature changes everything. Pieces signed by Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany & Co., Bulgari or David Webb routinely sell for far more than the value of their materials, because the name and demand carry their own premium.
Condition, era and completeness. Original condition, a genuine period (Art Deco, Retro, mid-century), and the box, papers or prior certificates all move the number — up for watches especially.
The market. Gold prices move daily, and demand for certain styles, stones and brands rises and falls. A valuation is a snapshot of today, not a permanent figure.
| If you have… | The value is mostly driven by… |
|---|---|
| A plain gold chain, band or scrap | Gold weight × purity × today's spot price (close to melt). |
| A diamond engagement ring | The diamond's 4Cs and any certificate first, then the metal and setting. |
| A signed designer piece | The brand and demand — often far above the materials alone. |
| A luxury or vintage watch | Model and reference, condition, service history, and box & papers. |
| Colored-gemstone jewelry | Stone type, size, and whether it's natural and untreated. |
| Inherited estate jewelry | A mix of all of the above — it needs a piece-by-piece look. |
Look inside bands and on clasps for karat stamps (14K, 585, 750), maker's marks and, on watches, a serial or reference number.
Share clear photos and any documents through the form or WhatsApp for a free preliminary read — no obligation.
For a real figure, mail the piece in with free insured shipping. It's examined and graded by a trained gemologist in the Seybold Building.
You receive a signed written valuation — then insure it, keep it, or sell it to us. There's never any pressure to sell.
Start with the hallmarks — karat stamps like 14K, 585 or 750, and any maker's mark — then get an independent appraisal. Send photos for a free preliminary read, and mail the piece in for a written valuation by a trained gemologist. That gives you a real number instead of a guess.
Often yes. If a piece has quality diamonds, natural colored gemstones, fine craftsmanship, or a designer signature, it can be worth far more than the metal alone. Thin, machine-made or costume pieces may sit close to melt value. A gemologist can tell you which one you have.
A diamond ring's value is driven mainly by the diamond's carat weight, cut, color and clarity — the 4Cs — plus any grading certificate, then the metal and setting. Note that resale value is normally well below the insurance or retail replacement figure printed on an old appraisal.
Yes, often significantly. Signed pieces from houses such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Tiffany & Co., Bulgari or David Webb frequently sell for far more than the value of their materials, because the name and demand carry their own premium.
Inherited jewelry varies piece by piece — one item may be scrap gold while another is a valuable signed or gem-set piece. An estate valuation documents each item so you can insure it, divide it fairly, or sell it with confidence.
Yes. An appraisal is completely independent of any sale — there is never any obligation to sell. Many people simply want to know what they own for insurance, an estate, or peace of mind. See our appraisal service for details.
Send a few photos and we'll give you an honest preliminary read and next steps. Want it in writing? We appraise by mail, nationwide. Ready to sell? We buy too — no obligation, ever.