The estate-jewelry world speaks its own language. Here are the terms you’ll actually meet when buying, selling or appraising — in plain English, from a working Miami jeweler.
Appraisal — A written, professional opinion of value — for insurance, estate settlement or resale. Values differ by purpose; see how much is my jewelry worth.
Baguette — A small, step-cut rectangular diamond, usually a side stone. A signature of Art Deco design.
Bezel — A metal rim that wraps around a stone to hold it — sleeker and more protective than prongs.
Brilliant cut — The modern round diamond cut with 57–58 facets, engineered for maximum sparkle.
Cabochon — A stone polished into a smooth dome instead of facets — classic for opals, coral and star sapphires.
Carat vs. karat — Carat (ct) measures gem weight — 0.2 g. Karat (K) measures gold purity — see the gold karats guide.
Channel setting — Stones set in a row between two metal walls, with no prongs — a clean, protected line of sparkle.
Cocktail ring — A bold, oversized gem ring — born in the 1920s–30s and revived in the Retro era.
Demi-parure / parure — A matched set of jewelry — two pieces (demi) or three-plus (full parure). Complete sets carry a premium.
Estate jewelry — Simply: previously owned jewelry. Not necessarily old — see what is estate jewelry.
Filigree — Lace-like openwork of fine metal threads — at its peak in Edwardian and Art Deco pieces.
Gold-filled (GF) — A thick layer of gold bonded over base metal. Better than plating, but not solid gold — check the hallmarks.
Hallmark — The tiny stamp certifying metal content (585, 750, 925…) — decoded in our hallmarks guide.
Inclusion — A natural internal feature of a gemstone. Fewer means rarer — but inclusions also help identify and fingerprint a stone.
Lavalier — A delicate pendant necklace with a dangling stone or drop — an Edwardian favorite.
Maker’s mark — The stamp identifying the workshop or house that made a piece — key to value on signed jewelry.
Milgrain — A border of tiny metal beads along an edge — the delicate finish you see on Edwardian and Deco rings.
Old European / old mine cut — Hand-cut diamond styles from the 18th–19th century — chunkier facets, warm candlelight glow, prized by collectors.
Paste — Hand-cut leaded glass used as gemstones in antique jewelry — collectible in its own right, but not a gem.
Patina — The soft surface character metal earns with age. On antiques, often best left alone — over-polishing can erase value.
Pavé — A surface “paved” with many small diamonds set close together.
Rose cut — A flat-bottomed diamond cut with triangular facets, dating to the 1500s — romantic, subtle, very antique.
Sautoir — A long necklace, often ending in a tassel or pendant — an Art Deco signature.
Signed piece — Jewelry bearing its maker’s signature — Cartier, Tiffany, David Webb. Signature multiplies value; see designer & signed jewelry.
Solitaire — A single-stone ring — the classic engagement format.
Sterling — Silver of 92.5% purity, stamped 925.
Tennis bracelet — A flexible line of identical diamonds — named after Chris Evert’s 1978 U.S. Open match.
Vermeil — Gold layered over sterling silver — looks gold, stamped 925.
White metals — Platinum, white gold, palladium and silver — told apart by hallmarks and testing; compared in platinum vs. white gold.
Send a photo of your piece — we’ll tell you what it is, what it’s made of and what it’s worth, in writing. By mail, nationwide.